Ocean : West Away
I used to meet up with Mike and Luke in remote parts of the country to
spend a week surfing, camping in the dirt, and telling stories, then part
ways and plan to meet up again for the next swell.
Having been away from that lifestyle for the past few years it now seems
foreign to drive for a day to catch a break in the weather and
surf, then drive a day to return home and study the weather maps to do
it again wherever looks good.
They had been
planing a trip to a part of South Australia I know well and used to
call home, and thought this would make a good story.